TOWING

1. STABILITY.
This is achieved by correct loading of all your clothes & effects into the caravan. Heavy items at floor level and as near the axle line as possible. Kettles & teapots also. From experience it is not a good idea to stow them at eye level. When you open the cupboard you’re assaulted by a kettle shaped missile trying to gain revenge! If you’ve stowed everything properly your outfit should tow without the dreaded snake being caused by an awning placed at the rear of the caravan. Loading properly will also, as well as being safer, increase you m.p.g. and important part of holiday touring.

2. TOWING MIRRORS.
There are many types of mirror, and as many arguments as to the best type. One thought is to use the wing mirror type seen clamped to front wings. Others mainly use extension door mirrors. These should extend far enough to give a clear view beyond the width of your caravan. Some people do not bother but will receive an almighty shock should their Insurance companies find out.
The more common type of door mirrors are those that employ lengths of rubber to cling to the actual door mirror. Another type coming to the fore are the type that fix to the door mirror surround. These are claimed to have less disturbance via vibrations.
Be warned! If you intend touring abroad you will have to have extension mirrors by law. Fines can be imposed on the spot and be costly.

3. REVERSING.
This is not as difficult as some would have you believe! The first rule is take your time. There is no rush, you’ve paid for the pitch and no-one is going to steal it! Make all your steering wheel movements small ones; this may sound daft but it is one of the big secrets to reversing a caravan. Hold your hand on the bottom of the wheel and turn it in the direction you want the caravan to go, making small corrections as you move. Hand signals from a partner help as long as you both understand the signal - this can stop divorces!
If you have a single axled caravan it will move dramatically to any large steering movements. Many people reverse so far and then manhandle the caravan into position.
If you have a twin axled caravan, the method is the same but there will be less movement of the caravan when large turns of the wheel take place. Some people believe it is easier to reverse a single axled caravan. Having had both I do not subscribe to this belief.
Another method is to let a lady do the reversing with the man giving instructions. At least the man can get away with ordering his wife about! :o)

4. STEEP HILL STARTS.
This is exactly the same as a normal hill start, with the proviso you remember there is a heavy weight attached to your vehicle. It will not accelerate in any normal way and this must be taken into account when pulling away. Be aware that front wheel drive cars will experience slightly more difficulty due to the incline and weight on the back wheels; so be careful of wheel spin and take this into account also.

5. STABILISERS.
A snake is a sudden side to side movement of the caravan caused either by bad loading or bow waves from passing traffic.
Pitching is the fore and aft movement caused by undulations in the road surface.
Stabilisers can not be used to offset bad initial loading (see 1). They are to assist the caravan regain a straight line in case of a snake. They will not make an unstable outfit into a stable one.
There are two main types. The spring stabiliser attaches to a fitment on the car and slides into an attachment fitted to the caravan. It works via pads similar to brake pads which attempt to keep the caravan in a straight line. A service interval of a couple of years (depending on usage) is recommended to keep the stabiliser in good operative order.
The other main type clamps directly onto the tow ball and again uses pads to keep the caravan in line. This is the more expensive option but doesn’t need on the car or caravan. It also replaces the normal tow hitch.
Two others are the Straightliner which is of the leaf type but more effective (and expensive) and the Winterhoff which not only helps prevent snakes but also the pitching of the caravan. This also fits directly onto the tow ball after replacing the normal head.

6. SLOWING THE UNIT.
Try to avoid using your brakes to slow the unit. Again, this is on cost as safety considerations.
Look ahead to see what is happening and use momentum to slow you whilst you consider your choice of action. Obviously, one can’t do this all the time but it will make a difference to both cost and temper. Use the gear box instead of the brakes on a hill - again it may sound daft but it will be more effective than brakes that have overheated and stopped working!

7. TYRE BLOWOUTS.
This is just about the worst thing that can happen to you when towing. The only recommended safety feature is Tyron Bands which keep the tyre on the caravan whilst you slow down. These are expensive but may save you the cost of a new car or caravan!
In the case of a blow out - DON’T BRAKE! Simply take you foot off the pedals (I press mine to the floor!) and wait until the snake has stopped and slowly move onto the hard shoulder or the first place of safety. If you can remember put on your emergency flashers as soon as possible to let everyone know there’s a problem.

8. SMOOTHLY DOES IT.
Try and keep your driving as smooth as possible, it makes for a more enjoyable journey and again, will save money. After all, you don’t drive your car with fast accelerating and jerky movements, do you???

9. OVERTAKING.
Tricky! This calls for good judgement and knowledge of you car’s towing/accelerating abilities. If in doubt - don’t! Never try overtaking on a downhill slope. This can cause a snake, it will mean that when you start braking the caravan won’t want to stop and it will take you a fair amount of time to slow down safely. It is recognised that downhill overtaking is one of the most dangerous manoeuvres an articulated combination can make.

ITEMS TO CARRY

10. LEVELLING BLOCKS.
These will be used to level the caravan. Sleeping in a caravan that’s not level severely raises the blood pressure!
Use these to level your ’van laterally - do not use the steadies - they’re nor strong enough and are not made for this purpose. You may negate your warranty if it’s found you’ve twisted the chassis using steadies. Forward and back levelling is accomplished using the jockey wheel.
Levelling blocks can be pieces of wood or triangular blocks bought from caravan accessory shops.

11. JACK.
The best type is the AlKo scissor jack. This gets under then ’van even when it’s tilted after stopping, and doesn’t add significantly to the weight of the ’van. Another good one is the type that clamps to your car exhaust and is blown up raising the caravan at the same time - cost around £60.

12. AXLE STANDS.
Again for safety. A jack is not all that safe to trust being under the ’van, An axle stand is far safer.

13. SPARE WHEEL CARRIER.
If you’re noseweight can accommodate it, always carry a spare there. It is by far the easiest method to access after a puncture, unless you own a modern Avondale!
If you can’t place a spare in the front locker, buy a carrier that fits under the caravan just to the rear of the axle. This isn’t the best method but is by far better than nothing. Also, ensure you lubricate the metals of the carrier. Many people have been caught out by not doing this and finding they can’t get the spare off the carrier.
(Editor note) I have a dedicated fixing for a spare wheel in the front gas locker. The problem is that the nose weight is increased by so much with the wheel fixed here, that I would be exceeding the towbar manufacturers limits set on ball weight. I ’run’ with my spare in the van, over the axle.

14. HOOK UP LEAD/POLARITY CHECKER.
On new modern ’vans an extension hook up lead is provided. However, on second hand models the owners might have kept theirs for their new ’van. If you want to hook up at a site this is an essential.
Polarity in the UK is not a problem as both Clubs’ (The Caravan Club & The Camping and Caravanning Club) and commercial sites are identical. It is when you go abroad that reverse polarity occurs. This can be checked by buying a checker for a couple pounds and simply plugs into a socket in the ’van, and lights up (or not) when reverse polarity is detected.

15. ADAPTERS.
These can be made by yourself or by an electrician simply by reversing the wires to the connectors. Alternatively you can buy Continental adapters from your local accessory shop. Caravans since 1999 are protected from reverse polarity by being dual polarised. I still believe in checking!
Germany and Scandinavia use different plugs (two pin), check before you leave!

16. SPARE BULBS.
It is only good sense to carry spare set of bulbs for the car & caravan. On the Continent it is compulsory to carry these and the Police can ask to see them. A fine can be levied if they can’t be shown.

17. MAINS WATER HOOK UP.
The safest method is the ballcock controlled version. This simply fits inside an Aquaroll and cuts off the water supplied after a predetermined level is reached within the Aquaroll. The other method is delivered to the caravan via water pressure. This can be tricky if your pride and joy can’t sustain the pressure and springs a leak!

ON SITE TIPS

18. PRE INSPECTION.
Check out the site prior to pitching. Have a look to see where you’d like to stay. Check out the toilets, this is a good guide to the standards kept on the site. On the Caravan Club & Camping and Caravan Club sites this shouldn’t be an issue as both have high standards of cleanliness.

19. TOURING TIP.
If you’re touring, don’t book too far ahead. If you think you’ll like a site, wait and see what it’s like. If you haven’t booked for more than a couple days and you don’t like it, you’ll not loose too much money; and if you don’t like it - move! There are thousands of sites both here an abroad. You don’t need to suffer bad service.

20. STAFF ATTITUDE. This is a sure indicator of a good or bad site. If the attitude is not up to standard - move! You’re paying, not them! They’ll suffer by not getting a hold of your hard earned cash!

21. FAMILY BUSINESS SITE.
These tend to be better than commercially owned (company) sites as they want your business and are prepared to work to make your stay enjoyable. Complaints can usually be satisfied to everyone’s satisfaction due to their commitment to their business.

22. ACCESSIBLITY OF PITCHES.
This is a frequently overlooked problem. Check that you can manoeuvre you outfit onto the pitch. It won’t be the first time the pitch is too small or awkwardly placed and you can’t get on! Also, is it hot? ..and does the pitch have shade?...Is it cooler?...and does the sun ever hit it?

23. SETTING UP.
If abroad, after settling the caravan level, check the polarity before anything else. You don’t want to be electrocuted before you’ve unpacked properly. :O) Connect the lead to the caravan firstly and then to the bollard, then have someone check the polarity. Normally three small lights come on if everything is normal. One or none means reverse polarity.

24. OVERLOADING THE CIRCUIT.
On most Continental sites, the amps are between six and ten amps. Check before you use the hair dryer, blown air heating and the TV! It is embarrassing to be the one that has to go to the site office and ask them to re-set the whole site!!

25. TOOL KIT.
Keep a small tool kit for small emergencies. Pliers, spanners, screwdrivers, insulation tape, bulbs, fuses, wires, crimping tool all come into play before you now it!!

26 LAST BUT NOT LEAST.

ENJOY YOURSELF! You got there without too much trouble, you found the site no problems, you reversed onto the pitch first time, the first cup of tea is near, the sun is shining and all’s right with the world!!
Now comes that most ecstatic moment for all true caravanners, slyly watching that couple over there shouting and screaming at each other whilst trying to put up that flaming awning!
..and on your return subscribes to Chat Line for Internet Campers (C.L.I.C.) it’s free and we’d love to hear of your trips. Come and enjoy a virtual rally! Meet like minded people and read what we have to say about sites.. warts and all! :O)

Andy Grant.

Top | Enter site. View index page | Visit our Facebook page