Clicreports.co.uk All Rights Reserved
Be advised that these reports remain the property of Sheila & John Mountifield and should not be copied or reproduced without thier consent.
Sheila & John Mountifield’s account of touring in Spain during May & June 2002
Hi Folks
After sailing from Portmouth on 14th May, we had a smooth crossing (first time ever) and relaxed in our "posh" cabin venturing out just to sample the fresh air, food, and the drinks and piano playing in the quiet bar.
It was an early rise to disembark after our second night on board, but the sun was shining, and, once up and about we felt a lot better about our 5.30 rising.
The drive to Santillana del Mar was lovely, the scenery along that northern road is spectacular.
The site was one of the only two in the north taking Camping Cheques, and what a good choice it was!
Beautiful pitches with trees for shade, the washroom area was immaculate, with push button showers WITH a delay so you didn’t have to lean on the button for water, or wash one handedly! A good washing machine and dryer, and good modern pans for the Black water refuse. Plenty of washing up sinks, and hand-washing ones.
Two swimming pools, one very shallow for kids. The area fenced off and locked out of hours. Plenty of loungers and pleasant grassy areas to sit, with a kiosk for drinks and Helados (ices). Watch what date it opens though, as it wasn’t due to open before 15 June!
The Cafeteria and Restaurant were very good, and the Barman, Juan Carlos really perfect for the job....one who was willing to please everybody with a wonderful personality....
There was a supermarket that didn’t have a great deal and was closed during May. We were surprised how many "smellies" arrived, a different set each night, and so quickly up and settled. The site also had static ’vans and static tents, but we didn’t even see the static vans. There was also tennis court and putting green.
The town we had known nothing about, but it lived up to its description as one of the prettiest towns in Spain. It was so old and unspoilt. Of course even at the early part of the year it was swamped with tourists, but it didn’t detract from its charm. We wandered around twice and ate there as well, and took loads of photos. Take a look at www.santillana-del-mar.com
Some images of Santillana-del-mar:
Sheila by the college * The college from garden * Santillana-del-mar
Only spending two nights there we certainly thought of returning on our way back.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Well, folks, the next part of our trip wasn’t so easy.
We drove westward from Santillana del Mar, along the E70, and made good progress until an unexpected stop just off the main road. This was due to an unopened service station shooting us off to a side road and then blocking the way back on again!
During this stop John found a huge split in the caravan offside tyre. (nearside in Spain). It had evidently happened when the caravan wheel had been forced up a pavement on one of those narrow, sharp corners before we got onto the main autovia.
Well he was so concerned that he decoded to change the wheel. Not having done this on the 2 year old caravan, it took a while to get the wheel from its housing underneath. However, after much heaving and crawling John managed to extract the wheel, and get it around the otherside of the ’van. The actual changing wasn’t so bad, but rather painful for his arthritic hands! Poor soul was shattered afterwards so we stayed and had our lunch and relaxed for a while.
We eventually drove through a village and found our way back onto the E 70 and continued, albeit rather delayed.
We had planned to go to a campsite near Ares " Camping El Raso" between Pontedeume anf Ferrol where all our friends lived. We arrived there at about 7.30pm only to find it was closed. The book said it would be open.........
By this time we were tired and had nowhere to go...... we searched in the book for another campsite....they don’t seem to open until June or later over there, but we found one near Coruna . A quick, but no doubt expensive, call on the mobile confirmed they were open and we arranged to be there in about an hour at 9pm. ..... Well we would have been had we not got completely lost in Coruna.
Now we KNOW Coruna...locals KNOW Coruna...however, EVERYBODY gets lost in that city! We asked 5 different people how to get to Santa Cruz, and they all KNEW and pointed the correct way, forgetting that there were CHOICES before the correct turning, that were completely mystifying. However, we eventually found the correct road, the VI and got to the campsite at 9.45.pm (of course we had to find deisel half way through our ducking and diving through Coruna, JUST in time)
We were so grateful to arrive....there is NO truth in the saying "it is better to travel hopefully, than to arrive."... not in this case anyway!
So the site......... "Los Manzanos".......the most lovely oasis of a site. The owner is a tree-lover, like myself, and has spent 20years or more growing beautiful and diverse trees around the site. He has a very up-market restaurant which has an extremly high reputation and is busy all the time with groups and locals who like the very best. It’s not at all reliant on the campsite visitors.
We only had one caravan with us for a few nights, and guess where they lived? Basingstoke!! The owners of the site said hardly any visitors from UK stayed there, so it was extremely unusual for two Caravans from the Uk to be there at the same time.
We stayed a week, and if we hadn’t wanted to be nearer Ferrol, we would have been happy to stay. The washroom facilities could not have been higher, and there was a very efficient Miele washing machine and dryer on the site. Only Caravans and tents, no static vans. I think they have a couple of high class bungalows they rent out.
However, back to the trees. The owner travelled extensively tree hunting, and when in Chile, South America, he brought back some seeds of trees he knew were not growing in Spain. Those trees are now 15 years old, and growing no where else in the country!
Some more images from Los Manzanos
Statue on site * Mulberry tree by stone den * Lost ball :o)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Well, our next site was only a few miles along the new motorway from Coruna to Ferrol. We left the autopista at Mino and drive around the coast road to "Camping Perbes". Now to look at, the site is perfect, but a few snags arose.
Firstly your car is parked away from your caravan, but the owner will use his tractor to site your ’van if the pitch you want is awkward.
The power is only 3 amp, and we couldn’t even use our small electric kettle. We could use the lights, TV and charge our batteries OK.
Thi s wasn’t a major problem, but for a long stay we would have preferred the more usual 5 or 10 amp.
A bar is on site, but so early in the season it seemed to be unused by anybody but the family of the owner. There appeared to be a supermarket but out of use when we were there.
After a week, I needed to use the laundry facilities.... well there was a washing machine, but it was like using somebody’s private laundry room who was VERY untidy, certainly it wasn’t geared to campers’ use, and there was no dryer.
Unfortunately we had some "Galician " rain and the ground was soggy most of the time we were there.
I would say its OK for a short stay. We stayed on because it was the only site open near all the folk we planned to see in Ferrol.
Images of Perbos. Our pitch, looking out * ....and looking in * Typical pitch * ....from another angle * One of many sunsets
We had a long day out down south to Padron, and surrounding areas. Some names on the maps are so confusing. As well as Galiago names ther are Catalan versions, and then even other names just on the sign posts, all referring to the same place!! It does cause a bit of friction between navigator (Me) and the Chauffuer (Him).
I have included photos of a Monastry we have often visited..."Mon Fero" quite a drive out into the country, further than we remembered.
We had lots of visitors to the Caravan and some had never even seen a caravan before, and others had not been inside one. The children left asking their parent to buy one, complete with a Discovery to pull it!
Our friend had found a house and garden in Ferrol they said would be perfect for us if we moved out there...... What a temptation! The garden was great with the most unusual artifacts scattered about it, and a wonderful view. We couldn’t see inside the house, as the Lady of the house was sleeping, but Oh, what a dream that would be! Alas the family would not be pleased if we upped and moved so far away!
Well having spent 10 days at Camping Perbes, where we had visited our favourite places Northward, such as Cedeira, O Barqueiro, and had our trip southward to Riveiro and Padron, we decided to travel to the north coast again and stay at a site called "Camping Playa de Tauran" near Luarca.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
True to the CC book, the site lay down a 3Km lane, very narrow and lumpy, however, "Lady Vanroyce" as we call our ’van, took it all in her stride and arrived in one piece not meeting any traffic along that part of the journey. We were the only travellers staying the first night, but one or two ’vans came and went whilst we were staying there.
Some photos from in and around Playa de Tauran.
Plan of the site * Our inlet at Tauran * Waves to shore * Last rays * Us on site * Sheila and the view beyond
The washroom facilities were excellent, and there was an efficient washing machine and dryer. There was a bar, a small shop and swimming pool and games park, all of which were still closed. There were a great many attractive wooden bungalows for renting, and the whole complex was on the top of a cliff overlooking the most fantastic coastline. They had their own private beach down a steep slope, and the area for Smellies and Tin-boxers, was very green and rural with some trees. The site for smellies were exclusive and had low posts in front to prevent caravans from using them. The electric connections were 5 amp. The ground was rather swampy due to the recent heavy rain.
Luarca is not to be missed! it is built in a wide ravine, and the road down from the campsite is incredibly winding with more than one "bite" at turning the hairpins above the town. I will send Ian the photos so you can see what fun it was! In the town there are winding roads, plenty of places to shop and eat, and the port turned out to be another half of the town. We loved it and returned a couple of times. I took 75 photographs on that first visit.....a sign of a good place?
Images of Luarca.
John feasting his eyes * The town * The harbour * Town centre * The town and beyond
The only drawback to the site we were on was the approach and length of time to get into the town. There was another site nearer, so if we go again we will probably choose that one called Los Cantilles. We didn’t visit that one, but it was the other side of the town and much easier to get at. There were at least 2 good supermarkets in town...if you can’t find one, do as I do....wait until you see somebody with obvious super market shopping bags and ask them!
It is a good idea to purchase the Official camping Guide for Spain....."CAMPINGS Guia Espana 2002" Most good bookshops seem to have it.
All the ones in the CCbook are there as well as others. Quite easy to follow, it gives additional information.
We only stayed 3 nights, and then travelled back to Santillana del Mar to the first site we had visited on our way along the coast.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Well having decided to go back to Santillana,(a reminder) we were eager to get going....surprising how good it is to go back to somewhere you have tried and tested!
We took the more southerly poute via the E 70 which was a more scenic way. We arrived and managed to use the same spot we had used previously, and soon had a battle on our hands trying to erect the awning in extremely blustery weather. John "tamed" it by pegging down the front whilst we got the poles in position....HE wasn’t going to be beaten!
Looking at our guide book, we decided a trip along the coast road to Comillas was a "must". Another tourist trap, (John at the port) it boasts the only building by Gaudi, that you can sit and eat in! Its a VERY high class restaurant that is usually booked up months in advance. I was particularly keen to see the building and took lots of photos! (Sheila outside the Gaudi building) It was fantastic with sunflower tiles decorating the outside, and towers and excentric bits and pieces even in the garden.
Wandering the little town I was lucky enough to find a hat...desperately needed for a wedding a few days after we arrive home! The little boutique only had two hats, and one fitted!!
Another day we drove to Santander and found the beaches opposite the Casino. A very good esplanade, but back into the town I wasn’t very impressed, except for the street market selling clothes and shoes. However, I WAS impressed with the out-of-town El Corte Inglese complex.. Go to it by travelling towards the port (Puerto) and you can’t miss it. Its HUGE and together with its supermarket, Hypocor, it has everything you could dream of. Its not very well signposted from the town, but going the other way its easy.
The weather bucked up and became really warm and John actually had a swim in the pool, but I decided the folk there couldn’t stand the excitement if I went in as well! (believe that and you’ll believe anything).
San Vincente was another town along the road westward, and well worth a visit. There was an excellent campsite there in an exceptional setting. "El Rosal" it was called and we walked around the site. It was a woodland setting on different levels, but all easy to drive with a caravan, and the only drawback we could see was 3 amp hook-ups instead of 5 or 10. The site went down to its own sandy beach, and had all the usual facilities.
We had planned to go to "Playa Joel" campsite to be nearer the ferry for our last two nights, but on examining the local map, realised that it was much further from the autovia, and might take as long as the faster route from Santillana. So we stayed and got up at 5.30 to pack and make our way to Bilbao for 10.30am. All went to plan and we had a very pleasant voyage to Portsmouth especially the second day when to sun came out and most travelles were sunbathing on the decks.
During this trip we realised that our impressions could have been quite different if the campsites had been full. Some things would be better, such as campsite shops and bars, whereas it would be much more crowded.
I used Cyber cafes mostly, as our friends with the landline went south to Cadiz for the Ferias....most inconsiderate! But there were many internet outlets, and any local will point you in the right direction, it was about 1 euro for half an hour, usually.
I used a digital camers for my pictures, and downloaded them each night onto the laptop and then had a memory chip clear for the next day. I took about 650 pictures on this trip. (Funny, Ian didn’t want all of them!!:-)
Oh yes, If you have a radio out in the area tune in to "Kiss FM" all music and lovely "standard songs." 96.7 FM ish. The "Classic" station is not as good as it used to be.
Sheila & John Mountifield. CLIC. June 2002