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This comes easily with practise. Follow the same routine every time:
Check the noseweight of the laden caravan every time that you hitch up and adjust the position of your personal effects if necesssary.
When hitching up to the car:
ENGAGE the caravan handbrake See image
CHOCK the caravan wheels (particularly, if on a slope) See image
RAISE the corner steadies See image
LIFT the caravan front on the jockey wheel if necessary and CHECK the noseweight See image
Reverse the car (with assistance) up to the caravan See image
Note: for your safety, you are strongly advised not to stand between the car and the caravan
ENGAGE the car’s handbrake fully and then RELEASE the caravan handbrake fully. See image
MOVE the coupling over the towball See image
Re-apply the caravan handbrake once the coupling head is directly over the towball.
LOWER the caravan on the jockey wheel See image
RAISE the release handle See image
This will allow the towball to pass inside the coupling head.
CLICK the release handle (ensure the coupling is fully on the ball) and then CONFIRM coupling engagement by raising the caravan little using the jockey wheel. See image
WIND UP the jockey wheel fully then See image
LIFT the jockey wheel column fully, ensuring the wheel is as high as it will go inside the 'A' frame cowling.
CLAMP the jockey wheel with its locking lever See image
CONNECT the electrical system See image
Note: The car shown has a 7N and 7S connection, not a single 13 pi plug
CONNECT the breakaway cable See image
Note: if the towing bracket does not have a dedicated loop or eye, wrap the cable around the ball stem and click back onto the cable.
Editor note: When possible I prefer to attach the cable to the actual towbar, either to an 'eye' on the towbar or looped around the body of the towbar, providing the cable is long enough to allow a good amount of slack for manoeuvring. Refer to page 10 for more information
CHECK all lights, indicators, reversing lights etc on the car and the caravan See image
RECHECK the coupling, the breakaway cable and electrical connections, caravan brake lever released.
Collect any blocks, chocks and corner steady pads
Always check that the coupling indicator, where fitted, shows green for successful coupling.
Also check that if an integral stabiliser (See image) is fitted the arm is locked down and the indicator is showing green. If a red indicator is showing in either, then the engagement is not correct.
See image
Walk all around the caravan to ensure that all the doors, windows, lockers and roof lights are closed and locked, check that any mains hook up is disconnected and the gas supply is turned off at the cylinder shut off valve.
Return to the coupling and CHECK AGAIN that the hitch is fully secured, the brake is off and that the breakaway cable is correct.
When unhitching from the car:
Note: If the ground is uneven you mat need to levelthe caravan from side to side using a spirit level or level indicator as a guige. The coner steadies are not intended to level the caravan, and any substantial cross slope may have to be countered using a ramped block under the wheel/s.
1.---ENGAGE the handbrake on the car and caravan.
2.---TURN OFF the car’s engine.
3.---LOWER the caravan jockey wheel.
4.---CLAMP the shaft of the jockey wheel.
5.---CHOCK the caravan wheels, particularly if on a long slope.
6.---UNCLICK the breakaway cable and stow carefully(tripping hazard).
7.---DISCONNECT the system (Make sure that the cable is not left to trail on the ground where it may become damaged).
8.---RAISE the front of the caravan on the jockey wheel and release the coupling clear of the hitch ball.
9.---DRIVE the car away from the caravan (or MOVE the caravan away from the towball).
10.--USE the jockey wheel and level to get the floor level.
11.--LOWER the corner steadies, using pads if the ground is not firm.